New Zealand's Forgotten Corner
Most campervan itineraries funnel straight from Queenstown to Milford Sound and miss the deep south entirely. That is a mistake — and an opportunity. The Catlins, strung along the Southern Scenic Route between Dunedin and Invercargill, is one of the wildest, quietest and most rewarding regions in the country. Rugged coastline, moody light, waterfalls in native forest, and some of New Zealand's best accessible wildlife — all with a fraction of the crowds.
This is a region that rewards a campervan perfectly: distances between highlights are short, the roads are quiet, and half the joy is pulling over wherever the coast takes your breath away. Compare a campervan from Queenstown or start from Dunedin/Invercargill if you're flying into the south.
Nugget Point & Roaring Bay
Nugget Point (Tōkata) is the Catlins' signature sight — a lighthouse perched on a narrow headland with a scatter of rocky islets (“the Nuggets”) trailing into the Pacific below. The short walk out to the lighthouse at sunrise, with mist over the sea and fur seals barking on the rocks, is unforgettable. Nearby Roaring Bay has a hide where you may spot yellow-eyed penguins at dawn and dusk.
Purakaunui Falls & the Waterfall Trail
The Catlins is waterfall country. Purakaunui Falls — a photogenic three-tiered cascade reached by a 20-minute forest walk — is the most famous, appearing on postcards and stamps. Others worth the short detours include McLean Falls (the region's tallest, ~40 minutes return) and Matai Falls. All are free and framed by lush native bush loud with birdsong.
Cathedral Caves
The Cathedral Caves are vast sea caves — up to 30 metres high — accessible only for about two hours either side of low tide (check the tide-gated access times and small entry fee before you go). A forest track and beach walk lead to the caverns, where the acoustics genuinely echo like a cathedral. Time this one carefully around the tide tables; it's worth the planning.
Curio Bay: Penguins & a Petrified Forest
Curio Bay is the Catlins highlight for many. At low tide a 180-million-year-old petrified forest is exposed on the rock platform — fossilised Jurassic tree stumps you can walk among. At dusk, rare yellow-eyed penguins (hoiho) waddle ashore to their nests; watch quietly from a distance. Neighbouring Porpoise Bay is home to rare Hector's dolphins that sometimes surf the waves just offshore in summer.
Where to camp: Curio Bay Camping (run by the local trust) has powered and non-powered sites steps from the penguin viewing area — book ahead in summer. Purakaunui Bay DOC campsite is a spectacular, basic beachfront option for self-contained vans.
Slope Point & the Southernmost Mainland
Detour to Slope Point, the southernmost tip of the South Island, where wind-sculpted macrocarpa trees grow permanently bent by the ferocious southerlies blasting up from the Southern Ocean — the next landfall is Antarctica. A short farm walk (closed during spring lambing) leads to the signpost marking the exact spot.
Linking It Together: The Southern Scenic Route
The Catlins forms the eastern leg of the Southern Scenic Route, which continues west through Invercargill and Riverton to Te Anau and Fiordland. This makes the Catlins a brilliant — and under-used — way to link Dunedin/the east coast to Milford Sound and Queenstown without backtracking. Fuel and supplies are limited, so stock up in Balclutha, Owaka or Invercargill.
Wildlife Watching: The Rules
- Keep your distance. Stay at least 10 metres from penguins and 20 metres from sea lions and fur seals. Never get between an animal and the sea.
- Dawn and dusk are prime times for penguins — be patient, quiet, and keep dogs away entirely.
- No drones near wildlife or DOC reserves without a permit.
Ready for the Deep South?
The Catlins is the antidote to the tourist trail — wild, uncrowded, and endlessly photogenic. With a campervan you can chase the tides to Cathedral Caves, wait out the dusk for penguins at Curio Bay, and fall asleep to the sound of the Southern Ocean. Compare live campervan and motorhome hire deals and build the deep south into your South Island trip.
📍 Pair this with our 14-day South Island itinerary and freedom camping guide.
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